Burgundy (Red)
Pinot Noir, grown on the gentle slopes of the Côte d'Or, produces arguably the greatest red wines of the world. It is here more than in any other region that the skill of the traditional merchant is tested - the grand châteaux of Bordeaux with all their size and fame give way to a plethora of small, mainly family owned, domaines where vineyard, cellar and office work is all undertaken by members of the family, with perhaps a handful of employees at certain times of year. Of course there are big firms too - the famous négociants of Beaune and Nuit St Georges (Bouchard Père et Fils and Faiveley for example) - but here too, the greatest wines come from their own vineyards.
Because of the Napoleonic inheritance laws, the pattern of vineyard ownership is constantly changing as land passes from generation to generation, and many domaines, though only a few hectares in size, may make as many as 15 or 20 different wines, often in miniscule quantities of a barrel or two. The system of labelling can also appear confusing as the wine takes its name from its appellation rather than (as in Bordeaux) from the producer. So although in the small print, the most important piece of information on a bottle of Burgundy is the name of the producer. In part for this reason, and in part because the wine is made from a single grape variety with therefore no possibility of adjusting blends where the strength of one variety can compensate for the weakness of another, the potential for disappointment is greater than is the case in Bordeaux.
When everything falls into place however, a truly great red Burgundy is a wonderful thing.
Domaine Darviot Perrin
Didier Darviot and his wife Genviève (née Perrin) run this important domaine which has brought together the vineyard holdings of two Meursault and Monthélie families. This has created one of the few domaines to have vines in the three most important 1er Cru vineyards of Meursault: Perrières, Genevrières and Charmes. In addition to this, they also have vines in Chassagne 1er Cru Blanchots Dessus - Chassagne's only 1er Cru vineyard on the north side of the N6, immediately abutting Le Montrachet, where the ground falls away, and opposite Criots Bâtard Montrachet. Didier is a winemaker of prodigious talent, and if his administration leads to frustrations (particularly the fact that he makes his wines available for shipment a year or more after most other growers) that seems a price worth paying for such sublime wine making.
Red
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2020 Volnay 1er Cru Les Santenots, Domaine Darviot Perrin x 62024-20306 Bottles£434.00£540.00
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2021 Chassagne Montrachet Rouge 1er Cru Bondues, Domaine Darviot Perrin x 62025-20316 Bottles£356.50£447.00
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2021 Volnay 1er Cru Les Santenots, Domaine Darviot Perrin x 62025-20316 Bottles£484.00£600.00
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2022 Chassagne Montrachet Rouge 1er Cru Bondues, Domaine Darviot Perrin x 62026-20326 Bottles£356.50£447.00
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2023 Chassagne Montrachet Rouge 1er Cru Bondues, Domaine Darviot Perrin x 62027-20336 Bottles£318.00TBA
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2023 Volnay 1er Cru Les Santenots, Domaine Darviot Perrin x 62027-20336 Bottles£450.00TBA
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White
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2022 Bourgogne Aligoté, Domaine Darviot Perrin x 62024-20276 Bottles£149.00£198.00
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2022 Beaune Blanc Longbois, Domaine Darviot Perrin x 62025-20306 Bottles£285.00£360.00
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2022 Chassagne Montrachet Blanc La Bergerie, Domaine Darviot Perrin x 62025-20306 Bottles£416.50£519.00
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