EN PRIMEUR: 2024 Burgundy En Primeur
Unanimity among growers is rare – but without exception, all described the growing conditions they experienced in 2024 as the most difficult they could remember. One used the word nightmare. Weather patterns during the growing season were very unusual from the beginning, and it became clear from the outset that the eventual quality of 2024 vintage would be made in the vineyards, with fine wines made only by those prepared to spend the time – and resources – on a huge effort in the vines.
February was exceptionally mild, and March exceptionally wet with downpours on an almost daily basis. Budburst took place from the 3rd week of March, in good time to incur some frost damage during April. This was particularly serious in the Mâconnais on the night of 26th-27th.
But the real problems began in May. On 1st May, a severe storm in Chablis caused extensive damage which greatly reduced the eventual size of the crop. This was followed by rain throughout Burgundy on 22 days of the month, and set the scene for a very poor flowering from early June, in cold and wet conditions. The result: extensive coulure (the failure of fruit to set) and millerandage (uneven fruit set within the same bunch). This particularly affected Pinot Noir and, according to one grower, was more pronounced in old vines than in younger plantings. Rainstorms continued throughout much of June and July, creating the perfect conditions for mildew which affected not just the leaves but also the bunches. Grower after grower repeated that only those who expanded their vineyard teams, and treated quickly and often – even being prepared to go out on the tractors on a Sunday – were able to keep the mildew at bay. Céline Fontaine for example reported 16 separate sprayings, while Benoit Riffault (Sauzet) reported 18. Inevitably, the lower lying and flatter vineyard sites were the worst affected. Canopy management was also essential – removal of leaves and cutting (or eliminating) grass between the rows to maximise aeration and exposure of the fruit.
There was some respite in late July and early August, but the rain returned, and there was also some localised hail damage, particularly in St Aubin. Finally in the second week of September, a cool and drying north wind brought much relief, concentrating the juice and preventing the onset of rot. This allowed picking to take place in broadly good conditions.
This may all sound somewhat apocalyptic, and probably would have resulted in a disastrous vintage in the 1970s, 80s or 90s. But with the much wider experience of the younger generation of growers, most of whom have worked in other parts of the world, and with more advanced techniques both in the vineyards and in the cuveries, those who worked diligently in the vines have produced some very fine wines indeed. The good reds are fine and pure expressions of Pinot, and the whites are widely regarded as outstanding. Alcohols are back to more classic levels – with up to a degree of Chaptalisation bringing most to between 12.5% and 13.5%. All agree that with such purity of fruit, and elegance of style, the expression of terroir is exceptional in this vintage.
2024 is a grower’s vintage, where the quality is more than ever made in the vineyards. It is arguably therefore a Burgundy lover’s vintage as it captures so beautifully the nuances and the essence, and also the capriciousness, of this greatest of wine regions.
Richard Berkley-Matthews,
17th December 2025.
2024 Burgundy En Primeur
Unanimity among growers is rare – but without exception, all described the growing conditions they experienced in 2024 as the most difficult they could remember. One used the word nightmare. Weather patterns during the growing season were very unusual from the beginning, and it became clear from the outset that the eventual quality of 2024 vintage would be made in the vineyards, with fine wines made only by those prepared to spend the time – and resources – on a huge effort in the vines.
February was exceptionally mild, and March exceptionally wet with downpours on an almost daily basis. Budburst took place from the 3rd week of March, in good time to incur some frost damage during April. This was particularly serious in the Mâconnais on the night of 26th-27th.
But the real problems began in May. On 1st May, a severe storm in Chablis caused extensive damage which greatly reduced the eventual size of the crop. This was followed by rain throughout Burgundy on 22 days of the month, and set the scene for a very poor flowering from early June, in cold and wet conditions. The result: extensive coulure (the failure of fruit to set) and millerandage (uneven fruit set within the same bunch). This particularly affected Pinot Noir and, according to one grower, was more pronounced in old vines than in younger plantings. Rainstorms continued throughout much of June and July, creating the perfect conditions for mildew which affected not just the leaves but also the bunches. Grower after grower repeated that only those who expanded their vineyard teams, and treated quickly and often – even being prepared to go out on the tractors on a Sunday – were able to keep the mildew at bay. Céline Fontaine for example reported 16 separate sprayings, while Benoit Riffault (Sauzet) reported 18. Inevitably, the lower lying and flatter vineyard sites were the worst affected. Canopy management was also essential – removal of leaves and cutting (or eliminating) grass between the rows to maximise aeration and exposure of the fruit.
There was some respite in late July and early August, but the rain returned, and there was also some localised hail damage, particularly in St Aubin. Finally in the second week of September, a cool and drying north wind brought much relief, concentrating the juice and preventing the onset of rot. This allowed picking to take place in broadly good conditions.
This may all sound somewhat apocalyptic, and probably would have resulted in a disastrous vintage in the 1970s, 80s or 90s. But with the much wider experience of the younger generation of growers, most of whom have worked in other parts of the world, and with more advanced techniques both in the vineyards and in the cuveries, those who worked diligently in the vines have produced some very fine wines indeed. The good reds are fine and pure expressions of Pinot, and the whites are widely regarded as outstanding. Alcohols are back to more classic levels – with up to a degree of Chaptalisation bringing most to between 12.5% and 13.5%. All agree that with such purity of fruit, and elegance of style, the expression of terroir is exceptional in this vintage.
2024 is a grower’s vintage, where the quality is more than ever made in the vineyards. It is arguably therefore a Burgundy lover’s vintage as it captures so beautifully the nuances and the essence, and also the capriciousness, of this greatest of wine regions.
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