red burgundy

Burgundy (Red)

Pinot Noir, grown on the gentle slopes of the Côte d'Or, produces arguably the greatest red wines of the world. It is here more than in any other region that the skill of the traditional merchant is tested - the grand châteaux of Bordeaux with all their size and fame give way to a plethora of small, mainly family owned, domaines where vineyard, cellar and office work is all undertaken by members of the family, with perhaps a handful of employees at certain times of year. Of course there are big firms too - the famous négociants of Beaune and Nuit St Georges (Bouchard Père et Fils and Faiveley for example) - but here too, the greatest wines come from their own vineyards.

Because of the Napoleonic inheritance laws, the pattern of vineyard ownership is constantly changing as land passes from generation to generation, and many domaines, though only a few hectares in size, may make as many as 15 or 20 different wines, often in miniscule quantities of a barrel or two. The system of labelling can also appear confusing as the wine takes its name from its appellation rather than (as in Bordeaux) from the producer. So although in the small print, the most important piece of information on a bottle of Burgundy is the name of the producer. In part for this reason, and in part because the wine is made from a single grape variety with therefore no possibility of adjusting blends where the strength of one variety can compensate for the weakness of another, the potential for disappointment is greater than is the case in Bordeaux.

When everything falls into place however, a truly great red Burgundy is a wonderful thing.

Domaine Hudelot Noëllat

Charles van Canneyt, grandson of Alain Hudelot, runs this famous estate, with the very able assistance of Vincent Mugnier, who has been at the domaine since March 2005.  Most of the vineyards come from the family of Alain's wife, née Noëllat, and while Alain remains a force to be reckoned with, so too does Madame Hudelot whose outward charm surely conceals an inner determination.  Charles has however clearly been given full support in making a number of improvements to the vineyards since the 2008 harvest, and it is clear that under such dynamic leadership, the future of this great estate looks extremely bright.

Charles van Canneyt


2013 Nuits St Georges 1er Cru Les Murgers, Domaine Hudelot Noëllat x 6
 6 Bottles
"Reduction is sufficiently strong so as to render the nose impossible to evaluate. There is excellent size, weight and density to the medium-bodied flavors that possess a really lovely mouth feel thanks to the abundant dry extract as well as the quality of the tannins which are finer than usual. Even so the Nuits roots are in evidence as the lingering finish does display a touch of rusticity as well as an interesting hint of blood orange. This is well worth considering provided that you have at least a modicum of patience. 90-93" Allen Meadows in Burghound 
2014 Vougeot 1er Cru Les Petits Vougeots, Domaine Hudelot Noëllat
 12 Bottles
"A markedly more elegant nose consists of cool and airy aromas of violets, black pinot fruit and a whisper of sandalwood. There is once again a sleek mouth feel to the refined medium weight and mineral-inflected flavors where the supporting tannins are riper and all wrapped in a moderately austere finale that delivers fine if not exceptional length. 88-91" Allen Meadows in Burghound 
2014 Nuits St Georges 1er Cru Les Murgers, Domaine Hudelot Noëllat x 6
 6 Bottles
"A much more deeply pitched nose features plenty of earth, game and spice scents that add considerable breadth to the mostly dark berry fruit aromas. There is excellent mid-palate density to the attractively textured medium weight flavors that possess much better finishing depth on the balanced finish. 90-92" Allen Meadows in Burghound 
2017 Bourgogne Rouge, Domaine Hudelot Noëllat
 12 Bottles
2017 Chambolle Musigny, Domaine Hudelot Noëllat
 12 Bottles
2018 Bourgogne Rouge, Domaine Hudelot Noëllat
 12 Bottles
2018 Chambolle Musigny, Domaine Hudelot Noëllat
 12 Bottles

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